Figure-of-Eight knot is probably the most useful of all climbing
knots. It is easy to tie, easy to undo after a load has been
applied, and puts the least stress on the rope when tied tight.
It can be tied anywhere in the rope, but if it's near the end,
it should be secured with a stopper knot to prevent the knot
from un-doing itself.
There are generally two methods used to tie a figure of eight
knot. The first method is used when a piece of equipment is
clipped into the loop, the second when the knot is used to tie
into something, for example, a climbing harness.
loop on a bight
The above re-threaded method is usually used to tie into a
harness, and is just a case of making a figure-of-eight on the
single rope, looping through the harness, and following the knot
back through itself.
Loop Figure-of Eight
loop figure 8 is used in equalizing the load between multiple
anchor points, it can be tied either on a bight of rope or as a
follow thru knot used with the in-line figure of eight.
Figure Of Eight
The in-line figure of eight is a mid-point loop knot used as a
unidirectional tie-in point. The knot can be tied and the tail
run through anchor points and then follow back through to create
a double loop figure eight.
The bowline is easy to adjust and untie. Beware, though, that if
tied incorrectly in can be unsafe. You should really tie a
stopper knot in the loop with the loose end to prevent it from
The clove hitch is easily adjusted when place, but is not a
particularly strong knot. If one side of the knot is to be
loaded, place the diagonal underneath. If both sides are to be
loaded, place the diagonal at the top. Tighten before loading,
as it may run if loaded when loose.
This knot can bear one's weight on one strand of the rope and
can be untied by just pulling on the other strand. End 'B' is
the load-bearing end. NOT RECOMMENDED for climbing, but
excellent for robbing stagecoaches, when you want to get away
quick with your rope.
Probably the simplest knot for joining two ends of rope.
Consists of two overhand knots.
Better than the Fisherman's Knot, this uses two double overhand
knots. Good knot, as it can be difficult to untie. Check
regularly for the loose ends getting shorter, and if so, re-tie.
Tighten with body weight.
Foot or Girth Hitch
Quick knot, but weak. When tied around an object it is referred
to as a girth hitch. Usually used with webbing loops as quick
Probably the simplest knot in existence. Usually used as a
stopper knot, but a double overhand is preferable.
Better as a stopper knot than the Overhand, as it is less likely
to pull through.
This knot can be used with slings and ropes, for shorting slings
to creating loops in the end of webbing. Once loaded it is
difficult to untie.
Occasionaly used to join the ends of ropes, may be adjusted
easily, but can also come undone easily.
or Water Knot
Usually used for joing the ends of tapes or slings. Can work
loose sometimes, so check regularly, and re-tie if the ends are
getting shorter. Tighten with body weight before use. Tails
should be at least 2 inches long.
ascending knots are shown in all, each have their advantages and
disadvantages. Try them all out, and see which you prefer.
prusik loop is mainly used for personal use, where a three wrap
prusik is used for heavier loads and system rigging.
Hedden Knot, also known as Kreutzklem
published in 1960 in Summit Magazine. In 1964, the name
Kreutzklem was attached to it by someone in the German mountain
troops who was shown it by an officer serving in the US Air
Force. The Kreutzklem name (cross-clamp) was applied because the
original inventor (Chet Hedden) got lost somewhere along the way
when it was shown to different people in Europe.